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The White Dog

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If experience counts for anything, The White Dog, a newcomer to the Main Street pack, should have a good chance for a long walk.

The menu is brief but varied. Spring rolls with apricot chutney ($6), described on the menu as crispy fried, fell short of that, but the zesty chutney saved them. A pastry turnover ($6), filled with portobello mushrooms, roasted red peppers and Parmesan, and decorated with squiggles of a balsamic reduction is a pleasant little variation of some classic and trendy flavors.

The main courses number only a dozen but they cover a lot of territory for a variety of appetites. There's a "Big Salad with everything that matters including cheese" ($7), and you can cry fowl (grilled chicken) for $2 or add grilled shrimp for $3.50. A mix of vegetables over linguine ($9.50) can be augmented by chicken ($12) or shrimp ($15.50). There's more than an Asian flair in stir-fried shrimp and vegetables over cellophane noodles in a hoisin sauce ($14). It's a colorful, flavorful bowl with good contrast of texture, particularly with a garnish of crisp-fried noodles on top. Ancho-roasted chicken ($10) is ordinary, either kept warm too long or warmed over, but I liked the macaroni and cheese underneath and the crisp, garlicky snow peas on the side.

We finished with an intense fruit sorbet, frozen in the shell of the fruit — tangerine, in this case. It's good.
— Davis Morton







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