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The Frog and the Redneck

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, as it's known among its neighbors, has been a destination restaurant from the beginning. First, it was the crowd from the Fan and the West End who came to see what it was all about; then they came from a bit farther afield. Even Phyllis Richman, the venerable foodie from the Wasthington Post, came to taste. Chef-owner Jimmy Sneed is a perfectionist - the food is pristinely fresh and dependably superb.

So in the dressy but decidedly unstuffy dining room, diners will find a menu which is printed daily to reflect market availability. Fish and shellfish might be considered specialties, but a buffalo hangar steak will satisfy a most exacting carnivore. Complements include wonderful variations of old Southern dishes (Redneck caviar, for instance, is gentrified grits).

The Frog influence comes from Sneed's friend-mentor Jean-Louis Paladin, a world-class chef, who was among the first to simplify traditional cuisine. Dinner at the Frog and the Redneck is not so much about complexity of flavors but the simple essence of flavors.

1423 E. Cary St. 648-3764

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