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Pegasus successfully and deliciously melds the flavors of Greek and Italian cuisine.

Club Med

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Mediterranean food has been the latest "news" for those who'd like to tell us what's good for us. But those of us who count taste rather than fat grams have known for a long time that the hearty flavors from around the Mediterranean add up to a lot more than good nutrition. Geographic borders are not so important as what is mutually available from the land and the sea. Pairing Greek and Italian food makes as much culinary as business sense, and the mix has led to many fine restaurants in our area and elsewhere in the United States.

, which makes this successful meld, has firmly established itself in that quirky little shopping center that used to house the post office until the p. o. moved to larger quarters across the way. Although the exterior looks like any other storefront in America, Pegasus has an inviting interior. You enter into the bar area where you may also eat, but the main dining area has been cleverly divided to give tables and booths ample privacy and space. The colors and lighting add a pleasant ambiance, hitting a happy medium between casual and dressy. This, combined with pleasant and attentive service, gets diners off to a felicitous start.

You're not going to find many surprises on the menu, but you'll probably find some among the copious plates that are brought to the table.

The appetizers are mostly Grecian classics, from lemony avgolemono soup ($3/$3.50) to taramasalata ($5.95). Somehow Cajun-inspired grilled shrimp ($8.95) gets in, along with some mundane fried mozzarella sticks, but we settled for a couple of the classics. The calamari ($5.95), crisp and tender, are served with tzatziki, a refreshingly cool yogurt-cucumber dip, which I much prefer to a warm tomato-based accompaniment. It is, of course, enough for at least two, as is the spanokopita ($5.95), two thick, cut diamonds rather than the expected phyllo-rolled triangles. Other starters, from a plate of feta and olives ($4.95) to sautéed artichokes and other vegetables ($7.95), are earthy and robust.

Most entrees are preceded by a house salad, which is several cuts above many we endure. This one, with impeccably fresh greens and vegetables, a generous shower of feta, and an over-zealous dose of the good house dressing, is also a plentiful serving. Rational diners would ask for a check. There is a heartier Greek salad, as well as several others that can bear fish, meat, or fowl and be called dinner ($8.95-$14.95).

For main dishes ($8.95-$19.95), you have more than two-dozen choices, many of them pasta based. One, called simply "seafood pasta" is linguini with shrimp and scallops in a cream-based lobster sauce, which gives a luxuriant finish to the nicely cooked seafood.

Do you get as irritated as I do when a waiter recites too quickly (using a crib sheet) eight or nine specials that we're supposed to keep straight until we order? Thankfully, the Pegasus waiter had only one to offer, and that struck my spring fancy — roulades of veal with a melt of cheese and asparagus spears in the center, surrounded by luscious demi-glace sauce. Accompanied by the house "cottage fries," which are thin slices of sautéed redskin potatoes, the dish was a winner. Among the other choices are Italian favorites like veal or chicken parmigiana, or Marsala, or Greek vegetables with penne pasta. Chances are you'll find something to enjoy twice (the second time heated for lunch or supper).

Reason had long left our table, so we were not about to say no to dessert. We assented to pannacotta, the flanlike Italian classic that struck a lighter note than tiramisu or a chocolate mousse cake.

Pegasus has a list of modest wines, several offered by the glass. Our server was attentive and cheerful; our dinner was copious and good.

This winged horse may not paw any great spring of inspiration, but he sure can cook. Let's hope the stove stays hot for a long time at

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