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No matter what you do to ring in the new millennium, drink something deliciously memorable.

Here's to 2000!

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Some people don't like to go to big parties. Some people don't like champagne. Many people dislike staying up past 10 p.m. and always dread New Year's Eve. And nearly everyone is sick to death of millennium madness. But one thing is certain — the question that will be asked for years and years to come: "What did you do to ring in the millennium?" Whether you're hosting a big party or just serving a small dinner for two at home, here are some suggestions to help make the festivities deliciously memorable. And please call a cab or have a designated driver if you've partied a little too much. Happy New Year!

1993 Domaine Carneros Le Rˆve brut sparkling wine, $50 — The famous French champagne house, Taittinger, produces this sparkler in California. Like its Gallic sister, this bubbly is sumptuous, elegant and possesses great finesse. It is a bracing brut that is festive served as an apéritif, with shellfish, or with creamy first-course soups. There are bottles available with a special millennium label; ask for it if you don't see it on the shelves.

1997 Banfi Fontanelle Chardonnay, $18 — Pale straw in color and full of ripe stone-fruit aromas, this perfectly balanced white wine — with hints of spice and wood — is a must for those who think they "don't like chardonnay." Try it with simply prepared fish such as grouper, sole or halibut, or with roast chicken, capon or turkey.

1997 Hogue Dry Chenin Blanc, $7 — Bright, fruity and with a hint of sweetness, this white from Washington state is delicious with salty, rich hors d'oeuvres such as toasted nuts, herbed olives and many cheese spreads.

1999 Georges du Boeuf Beaujolais Nouveau, $8.99 — This was a stellar season for Beaujolais Nouveau, and if you haven't enjoyed it yet this year, now's the time. (Nouveau is best sipped soon after bottling, while it's fresh and youthful.) An added plus: the bottle has a festive design, so it looks great, too. This ripe, rich, fruity red is a wonderful accompaniment to pté and rich, meaty hors d'oeuvres, like sausage in brioche.

1998 Carramar Estate Merlot, $9.99 — From South Australia, this medium-bodied wine is redolent with ripe berry aromas and goes beautifully with roast chicken or game birds.

1996 Gundlach Bundschu Cabernet Sauvignon, $18 — This California red has a nose of cassis and blackberries, and is round and mouth-filling on the palate. Pair it with roast beef, leg of lamb or crown roast of pork.

1995 Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico D.O.C., $25 — Amarone is produced from dried grapes (think: carefully selected, totally pampered raisins), but the resulting wine is dry; not raisiny sweet. This Amarone is assertive and opulent, but at the same time, lean and austere making it a complex and fascinating wine, indeed. It's fabulous with rich, meaty dishes like braised lamb shanks or creamy pasta dishes. (And if you're shopping for wine in New York or D. C., look for the 1990 Cesari Amarone ($50) packaged in a special, limited-edition millennium

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