At night, Jimmy's Too morphs into a fine dining establishment. Different menu, different atmosphere. Gone are the deli sandwiches and the lunching ladies and glasses full of Coke. On a recent Friday night at around 7:30 we were seated right away and attended to by a very professional waiter. I mean this guy knew his stuff. A 30-year veteran of the restaurant business, he handed us both the standard dinner menu and a sheet of specials and told us that every single special offered was outstanding. His delivery was so assured that we didn't doubt him for a second. Well, maybe one second. I heeded his advice and ordered an entree from the specials list — broiled monkfish with a cucumber relish. But my friend chose the lamb chops from the regular menu (an incredible value at $15.95). The waiter tried to persuade him to get the special lamb — a rack for $21.95. But we stuck with the chops. "Best lamb I ever had," he said as he headed for the kitchen. About two minutes later, we chased the waiter down and changed to the rack.

Every detail of our dinner was delectable. The blackened scallop appetizer ($7.95) that we shared was incredibly tasty. Five large ocean scallops had been sauteed in an iron skillet, blackened just right and placed on a plate with a bowl of drawn butter and drizzled hot sauce. They disappeared quickly. Our dinners included a nice garden salad - mixed greens and cherry tomatoes with a slice of cucumber and a good selection of dressings. Fresh warm bread served with butter and olive oil also kept us happy while our entrees were prepared. And the main course was definitely worth waiting for. Monkfish is a fleshy fish that some might call tough while others might liken to lobster meat. I thought it was delicious, especially with the tart relish. My friend's rack of lamb, encrusted with rosemary, was very generous in portion, equal to at least five small chops, and a savory warm pink in the center. Both of our dinners were served with sauteed snow peas and rice with peas and diced carrots.

Somewhere during dinner Jimmy himself stopped at our table to make sure we were satisfied. Oh yes, very. I'd been eyeing the massive cakes swirling round in one of those diner-esque rotating dessert cases, I told him. He said his wife keeps trying to make him get rid of the case due to its un-fine-dining appearance. I think it's a nice retro touch. And seductive, too. Since he said the creme brulee was not ready, I tried a slice of five-layer strawberry cake (rich and sweet), and my friend had a slice of chocolate mousse cake (killer).

About an hour or so after arriving, we stumbled out of Jimmy's Too full of great food and the kind of satisfaction you get when you feel like you got a good deal. With nothing on the menu over $23, you don't need a special occasion to pop in here for dinner. Pasta, seafood, veal, chicken and beef are all reasonably priced and creatively prepared. We'll be back, for both lunch and dinner. S

Jimmy's Too!

1549 Parham Road., Ridge Shopping Center

673-7660

Monday - Saturday

Lunch 11 a.m. - 3:30 p.m.

Dinner 5 p.m. - 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 10 p.m.