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Get out of the chardonnay rut with these cool, crisp, alternative whites.

The Other White Wines

Lt's easy to get in a rut. Chardonnay. Sauvignon blanc. Chardonnay. Sauvignon blanc. They're both terrific white wines, but there are so many other choices. It's still summer, so why not fill the refrigerator with some cool, crisp, "alternative" whites that can accompany everything from veal chops to pizza bianco? Here are a few to start with:

1998 Domaine du Paternel Blanc de Blanc Cassis, $16.99. This straw-colored elixir from Provence is slightly tingly on the tongue; it's lush and rich, but thankfully, not oaky. Try it with grilled or sautéed scallops, lobster, shrimp or veal chops. Note: White wines from Cassis — a town located on the Mediterranean southeast of Marseille — should not be confused with the sweet liqueur, crŠme de cassis, which is made from the black currant, also called cassis.

1999 Fillaboa Albari¤o, $11.99. Full of charm, spunk and deliciousness, this medium-light-bodied wine from Spain has a slightly salty flavor, making it a tasty match to Spanish tapas, simple pan-fried fish, fried calamari and seafood salads.

1996 Torre Ro… Roero Arneis, $5.99. What a bargain! This light, clean, simple dry wine from Italy's Piedmont region is just right with pizza bianco, or with simply prepared chicken or fish. Or, pour it as an apéritif with a bowl of toasted almonds.

1998 Beringer Gew�rtztraminer, $ 6.99. Pears, spice and apricot combine in this wine's seductive bouquet. It's rich and round on the palate, and is — in terms of sweetness — what I would describe as "semi-dry." If you like the sweetness of most white zinfandel, then by all means, try this wine.

1998 Hogue Cellars Johannisberg Riesling , $8.99. Another semi-dry wine, with flavors of stone fruits, spice and honey. Try this Pacific Northwest wine as an apéritif, or with spicy Asian fare.

1999 Georges Duboeuf Viognier, $14.95. Aromas of prune, apricot and brandy prepare the palate for this elegant, light-bodied wine from France. Try it with roast loin of pork or steamed

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