Ask other chefs to name Richmond's best, and many of them say J. Frank, the soulful and serious food purist whose European training led him to New York and the legendary Inn at Little Washington. After making a name for the Berkeley Hotel with his elegant season-driven cuisine, Frank packed his knives for private practice. But he's acutely aware of the local food scene and a frequent presence on the benefit circuit. Beloved for his technique and taste, Frank won't rule out the possibility of opening a small fine-dining restaurant some day, white tablecloths and all. But that's in another lifetime.