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Every Year: Ham BiscuitsThis Year: Foie Gras, Bleu Cheese, Champagne

Feast Without Remorse

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When it comes to food during this holiday season, you could go two ways. You could delicately munch a ham biscuit the way Aunt Gladys did. Or you could follow the advice of Henry Reidy and eat some seriously deadly food. Reidy, the owner of the Strawberry Street Vineyard, is one of three Richmond-area food and wine experts who host an ever-bizarre community-access show, "Cooking with Fat." Just two months old, it airs at 7:30 p.m. Wednesdays. It features Reidy, and Tommy and David Graziano of Charley's Stony Point Café showing how to cook and eat like Caligula. "Basically, we got tired of other cooking shows that featured light this and low-fat that," Reidy explains. "We're about the sheer hedonistic pleasure of eating." What's their call for holiday party eating? The richer the better. Reidy's top picks: l Goose-liver pte. "Oh yes, it's rich and cholesterol-enhanced. But it's this lovely, creamy mouth feel. Of course, it doesn't go well with animal-rights activists because they do fatten up those geese," he says. "But we don't care about them." l Interesting cheeses. Try a nice bleu served with a crusty French bread and a small plate of olive oil for dipping. "I recommend the Maytag cheese," Reidy says. (Yes, Maytag, as in the washing machines. Same family.) Another option might be St. Andre, a French cheese. "It's got triple the cream of what you might find in any supermarket," Reidy gloats. "It's like butter." l The bubbly. "You just gotta have champagne," he says. "It's the essence of partying and fun. I'd go for a bone-dry rosé champagne. Try Billecart-Salmon." A half-bottle - enough to make two people giggly - will set you back about $35. Whatever you choose at the holidays, though, Reidy insists it should be interesting — and unusually decadent. " I could go my whole life without seeing another cheese ball," Reidy

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