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Davis & Main; Zoom Zoom

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The food that comes out of the kitchen at is comforting on the order of a weekend spent in loafers and corduroys. The menu is limited and focused around the kitchen's grill, with a predictable lineup of meats that serve as blank canvasses washed with the savory color of the cook's palette of sauce preparations. You must start, however, with the smoked trout and pork tenderloin appetizer served on a platter with smoked cheddar cheese, lingonberries, sour cream and sliced apple: a remarkable synthesis of fall flavors. Tables turn regularly, seven-days-a-week, because in the end Davis & Main isn't about haute cuisine or proper stemware, but it is the kind of place you go to when you're hungry and just plain don't feel like cooking. — Noel Patrick Convenient to the downtown business district, seems a good candidate for the business lunch. And Zoom Zoom, it would appear, takes its lunch seriously, or at least, their sandwiches are priced in a manner that suggests a level of seriousness. Zoom Zoom offers grilled sandwiches like the patty melt, the grilled club and the French dip, and deli-style sandwiches like roast beef, corned beef, tuna salad. In addition, there are the usual salads, burgers and a few daily specials like lasagna, or popcorn shrimp. No trendy surprises here. It's a place that strives to excel with basic familiar food rather than pushing the envelope of creativity. This is not a criticism, merely an observation. Here is a criticism: If eschewing fickle trends and instead serving very well-executed classics is Zoom Zoom's goal, it misses the mark. As I polished off my dessert, the proprietor brought my bill, accompanied by a minisize Mr. Goodbar and a miniature Christmas tree. A rather odd touch but one that exemplifies the enthusiasm this couple has for their restaurant. In the end, however, it would serve them well to direct a little more of that enthusiasm toward producing consistently good fare. If they did that, they'd have great little place called Zoom Zoom that could generate the loyal regulars that its namesake presumably did. — B. Ifhan Rhys

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