Stella's

1012 Lafayette St.
358-2011
stellasrichmond.com

Second Place: The Crazy Greek

Third Place: Greek on Cary

Stella Dikos has a problem with retirement. It just doesn't seem to take — her restaurant, Stella's, is in its third incarnation. Once occupying the space that's now Edo's Squid, it moved to West Main Street and now finds its home on Lafayette Street in the near West End. Lemon and garlic become revelatory under Dikos' hand, and moussaka changes from a heavy, nap-inducing meal to a light and airy entree. Carefully chosen Greek wine brings the island nation home while old, black-and-white Greek films flicker over the tables. Each location has become more comfortable even as the design changes with the times, and although reservations are almost mandatory, this Richmond institution is worth the wait. The Crazy Greek is where many Richmonders got their first taste of lamb and learned to pronounce "tzatziki," and Greek on Cary is small in size but big in taste — it fills up fast, so takeout is sometimes the best option for that souvlaki in pita or avgolemano.